At close distances the lens may itself cast a shadow. On camera flash will put out plenty of light, but cast terrible shadows and harsh reflections. In general, though, you want lots of light and probably multiple sources to cut down on shadow, but the light must be fairly soft unless you are seeking reflection. A browse on the net may help to see what is out there. Many product photographers invest heavily in lights and color-free platforms for this. In other words, error a little on the close side. A general (very general) rule of thumb is to try to focus about 1/3 into your field. If you can keep aperture around f/8-11 you will have the best compromise between DOF and diffraction.ĭepth of field is greater behind the focus point than in front of it. You will have to decide for yourself how much overall softness you can accept in return for deeper depth of field. Smaller apertures will help, but above about f/11 you will begin to lose some clarity to diffraction and the overall image will soften. Shoot as close to 90 degrees as aesthetic considerations allow. If you're manually focusing, use the magnified live view and keep your movements very very small.ĭepth of field at close distances is very shallow. The main thing you will gain with a true macro lens, other than very close range and reduced distortion, is improved manual focusing precision. At its best, the D3200 lens will provide as much sharpness as the sensor can handle, so if your object is in its focal range and you can get good focus, you may need no other. AF might work better if you can aim it right. Its focus "throw" is very short, and you must be very delicate. The kit lens is not happy to focus manually, but it can be done. You will probably need to put it on a tripod, turn off VR, and may have to focus manually. To begin with, the D3200 kit lens is pretty decent at close work, and though not a true "macro" in range it gets close enough for most jewelry. I cannot now remember whether some of the jewelry shooters have posted back with results. You might look down into the older posts and see what has been discussed before. Many of the same rules would apply as those involving food and other products, except that you may want to isolate your product more, keep more of it in sharp focus, and will be fighting reflected light more. Although I do not have any particular expertise in jewelry, many of the basic precepts of macro photography will apply. dSLRs are expensive because they're system cameras, and you have to buy the other parts of the system to take advantage of their versatility.This subject has come up a few times before. And if $150 is too expensive for a lens for you, then a dSLR may not be the right type of camera for you. In short, it'll be a pain in the ass to use.Īnd a Nikor 55-200 or 70-300 lens goes for around US$150 new on Amazon. And you won't have any EXIF information from the lens. You can't shoot in any modes other than M and A, because the body can't tell the lens what aperture to use. Your D3200 cannot meter accurately with this lens. You have to set the aperture with the lens's aperture ring. There's no electronic communication between the lens and the body as you'd have with a current Nikon lens. In addition, the FD/FL mount was mechanical only. The cheaper that adapter is, the softer it's likely to make your lens. But that will increase the focal length, reduce the maximum aperture, and add softness. So you'll need a lens with a glass element in it to act like a teleconverter to regain focus-to-infinity. While you gain in close focus ability, you lose in far focus ability. Which means the lens won't be able to focus past a certain point. So, if you do find a simple adapter ring and use it, your lens will be sticking about about 6mm or more (because the ring adds to the depth) too far. And the FD mount's registration distance is 42mm. Because you can't just shove a lens farther into a camera body without damaging or modifying the physical linkage somehow. However, when the mount you're adapting to is thicker than the one you're adapting from, you're in trouble. If the mount you're adapting from has a thicker registration distance than the camera you own, adapting is easy-a simple ring can make up the distance as well as make the physical linkage possible. This distance varies between mount systems, and lenses are designed specifically to work at this distance. This is the distance that the lens is held by the mount away from the image plane (the sensor, in the case of a dSLR). The main problem here is the registration distance. While you could find an adapter to mount it on a D3200, it's problematic, even for adapting onto a Canon dSLR.
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